Emilio Comici | |
|---|---|
 | |
| Born | Leonardo Emilio Comici 21 February 1901 Trieste, Italy |
| Died | 19 October 1940 (aged 39) Sëlva, Val Gardena, Italy |
| Nationality | Italian |
| Occupation(s) | Mountain climber, caver |
Leonardo Emilio Comici (21 February 1901 – 19 October 1940) was an Italian mountain climber and caver.[1][2][3] He made numerous ascents in the Eastern Alps, particularly in the Dolomites (where he made over 200 first ascents during his career) and in the Julian Alps.[2][3][4] Comici was nicknamed the "Angel of the Dolomites".[2][3][5]
In the 1930s and 1940s Comici and other climbers (including Riccardo Cassin, Raffaele Carlesso and Alvise Andrich) represented the Italian answer to the achievements of German climbers. Comici perfected the Bavarian technique of mountain climbing, and began the era of "sixth grade" climbing (at that time the highest climbing grade considered humanly surmountable).[1][6] He was the inventor and proponent of using multi-step aid ladders, solid belays, the use of a trail/tag line, and hanging bivouacs, contributing greatly to the techniques of big wall climbing.[6]
- ^ a b Frison-Roche, Roger; Jouty, Sylvain (1996). A History of Mountain Climbing. Trans. Deke Dusinberre. Paris, New York: Flammarion. pp. 100, 302. ISBN 2-08013-622-4. LCCN 96-85980. OCLC 36019037.
- ^ a b c Douglas, Ed (2011). Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest. Smithsonian Institution. New York: DK Publishing. pp. 288–289. ISBN 978-0-7566-8682-6.
- ^ a b c "Emilio Comici (1901-1940)" (in Italian). Pareti Verticali. 2012. Retrieved 20 March 2013.
- ^ "Mountain Climber Emilio Comici". Gardena.Net. Winter 2012–2013. IT01619310210. Retrieved 14 March 2013.
- ^ "Civetta" (in Italian). paretiverticali.it. Retrieved 19 March 2013.
- ^ a b Middendorf, John (1999). "The Mechanical Advantage". Ascent. Retrieved 19 March 2013.