Meisen (textile)

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Meisen (銘（めい）仙（せん）, lit. 'common silk stuff') is a type of silk fabric traditionally produced in Japan; it is durable, hard-faced, and somewhat stiff, with a slight sheen,^[1]: 79 and slubbiness is deliberately emphasised.^[2] Meisen was first produced in the late 19th century,^[3] and became widely popular during the 1920s and 30s (late-Taishō to early-Shōwa period), when it was mass-produced^[2] and ready-to-wear kimono began to be sold in Japan.^[4] Meisen is commonly dyed using kasuri (Japanese ikat) techniques, and features what were then overtly modern, non-traditional designs^[5] and colours.^[2] Meisen remained popular through to the 1950s.^[2]

The fibre used for meisen is staple fibre (often silk noil), degummed and sized with soy milk, which increases durability and increases the depth and brilliance of the dye colours.^[3] Between 1910 and 1925 (late Taishō to Shōwa period), the ability to spin^[6] as well as weave^[2] noil by machine (see tsumugi) was developed into mass production. Prices dropped drastically, and silk cloth and clothing was suddenly within the budget of most Japanese^[2] (who had previously worn asa, domesticated bast fibre, or cotton; see tanmono).