Mount Huntington (Alaska)

Mount Huntington
Highest point
Elevation	12,241 ft (3,731 m)[1]
Prominence	2,890 ft (880 m)[1]
Coordinates	62°58′02″N 150°53′55″W / 62.96722°N 150.89861°W / 62.96722; -150.89861
Geography
Mount Huntington Alaska
Country	United States
State	Alaska
Borough	Matanuska-Susitna
Protected area	Denali National Park and Preserve
Parent range	Central Alaska Range
Topo map	USGS Talkeetna D-2
Climbing
First ascent	25 May 1964 by Jacques Batkin and Sylvain Sarthou
Easiest route	rock/snow/ice climb

Mount Huntington is a striking rock and ice pyramid in the central Alaska Range, about eight miles (13 km) south-southeast of Denali. It is also about six miles (10 km) east of Mount Hunter, and two miles west of The Rooster Comb. While overshadowed in absolute elevation by Denali, Huntington is a steeper peak: in almost every direction, faces drop over 5,000 feet (1,520 m) in about a mile (1.6 km). Even its easiest route presents significantly more technical challenge than the standard route on Denali, and it is a favorite peak for high-standard technical climbers.

Mount Huntington was first climbed in 1964 by a French expedition led by famed alpinist Lionel Terray, via the Northwest Ridge, from then on also called the French Ridge. The second ascent the following year, via the West Face/West Rib, is reported by David Roberts in The Mountain of My Fear. The mountain can be accessed either from the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier, on the north side of the mountain, or the Tokositna Glacier, on the south side.