Tony Yaniro

Tony Yaniro
Climbing career
Type of climbercrack, boulder and sport climber
Known forFirst ascent of Grand Illusion (1979), the "Yaniro" signature move, hand hold shaper and manufacturer
First ascentsThe Pirate (1978), Alien (1980)

Tony Yaniro (also spelled as Toni Yaniro, born 1961 or 1962),[citation needed] is an American professional rock climber known for his unique climbing style signature move, the "Yaniro" and for being the first-ever person to redpoint an 8a (5.13b) graded rock climbing route. He has been called one of the founders of modern climbing training[1] and describes himself as the "father of sport climbing'.[2] He has made a number of first ascents across difficult routes in the United States and is known for being a pioneer in hand grip development.

His approach to cross training and circuit training to train muscle groups for climbers has had a wide resonance beyond developing sport climbers. His training regimes have been used to develop climbing fitness and endurance in all types of climbers, and have been used by some of the world's leading alpinists and high-altitude mountaineers.[3][4]

He popularized the statement: “If you can’t do the moves, then there is nothing to endure.”[5][6]

  1. ^ sky1tech (September 30, 2013). "Power Training Through Campusing". Touchstone Climbing. Retrieved July 13, 2024.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  2. ^ "Gripstone Climbing - Prescott Arizona Rock Climbing Gym". Gripstone Climbing. Retrieved July 13, 2024.
  3. ^ Dressel, Mallane (May 8, 2014). "'New Alpinism' promotes cross training regimen for climbing success". Boulder Weekly. Retrieved July 13, 2024.
  4. ^ "Wall Warriors! A history of training for climbing". www.ukclimbing.com. January 26, 2011. Retrieved July 13, 2024.
  5. ^ ""The Making of a 'Rockprodigy'"". The Rock Climber's Training Manual. December 11, 2013. Retrieved July 13, 2024.
  6. ^ "Fundamentals of Endurance - Climb Strong". www.climbstrong.com/. Retrieved July 13, 2024.