1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition to Mount Everest

Photo of the body of a climber known as Green Boots, photographed in May 2010. Green Boots is believed to be Tsewang Paljor, an Indian member of the ITBP party who died on the Northeast Ridge of Mt. Everest in 1996.

The 1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police Expedition to Mount Everest in May 1996 was a climbing expedition mounted by the Indo-Tibetan Border Police (ITBP) to reach the summit of Mount Everest. The first party of the season on the Northeast face, it fixed climbing ropes and broke trail for subsequent parties. Three members of the ITBP expedition continued on to the summit; none returned, adding three deaths to five among two commercial parties spread over the Southeast and Northeast routes up the mountain that became known as the 1996 Mount Everest climbing disaster.

While the name 'ITBP expedition' may sound like a rescue party sent to aid other climbers already in distress, it was not. It was an attempt to have the first Indian reach the summit. High on the mountain it was caught in the same blizzard that resulted in the deaths among the two commercial parties. Three members of the IDPE[clarification needed] party descended, while three others made a late-day effort for the summit (the success of which is disputed[1]). Their inability to return resulted in two attempts to organize rescue efforts on their behalf: a Japanese party at Camp 6 sought to send three of their Sherpas, but it was too late in the day with too little light left; and a request made of the Indian party at Camp 6 was refused.[2]

The expedition was led by Commandant Mohinder Singh and is credited by some as being the first Indian ascent of Everest from the North Side,[2][3]

  1. ^ Cite error: The named reference LFE was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  2. ^ a b Cite error: The named reference uiaa was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  3. ^ Singh, Mohinder (2003). Everest: The First Indian Ascent from North. Delhi: Indian Pub. p. xvi. ISBN 978-81-7341-276-9.