Burden of Dreams (climb)

This article is about a boulder climb. For the 1982 film, see Burden of Dreams.
Burden of Dreams
Map showing the location of Burden of Dreams
Map showing the location of Burden of Dreams
LocationLappnor, near Loviisa, Finland
Coordinates60°25′26″N 26°08′08″E / 60.423895°N 26.135606°E / 60.423895; 26.135606
Route typeBouldering
Vertical gain4 metres (13 ft)[1]
Rating9A (V17)
First ascentNalle Hukkataival, 23 October 2016[2]

Burden of Dreams is a 4-metre (13 ft) red granite grade 9A (V17) bouldering problem at Lappnor near Loviisa, in Finland. It was first climbed by Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival on 23 October 2016, who spent four years projecting the boulder,[3] and features in the 2017 climbing film, The Lappnor Project.[4][5]

Climbing awarded Hukkataival a Golden Piton [fr] in 2016 for having the courage to grade it at 9A (V17),[6] making Burden of Dreams the world's first-ever boulder problem at the 9A (V17) grade.[7][8]

After resisting further attempts by the world's strongest climbers for many years, including by Shawn Raboutou and Stefano Ghisolfi,[9] it was finally repeated by British climber Will Bosi on 12 April 2023.[10] Bosi practiced on a 3D-printed replica of the key holds and movements of the route in the United Kingdom, before attempting the actual boulder in Finland.[11][12] Bosi also confirmed the grade of V17 (9A).[13]

After Bosi's repeat, climbing hold manufacturers began to offer highly accurate 3D-scanned replicas of the holds on Burden of Dreams to the public; and by altering the gradient to vertical, instead of a 45-degree overhang on the real route, it was estimated that the grade of difficulty is softened to almost V2 (5+).[14]

  1. ^ "The Lappnor Project: The story behind the first 9A boulder". BlueKangooFilms. 2017. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
  2. ^ Pardy, Aaron (9 January 2023). "Will This Be the Year That Burden of Dreams V17 Finally Gets Repeated?". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 4 August 2023.
  3. ^ Cite error: The named reference Outside1 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  4. ^ "Nalle Hukkataival Sends World's First V17". Rock & Ice. 26 October 2016. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
  5. ^ "Trailer: Nalle Hukkataival's Lappnor Project (V17)". Climbing. 14 November 2016. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
  6. ^ Cite error: The named reference CL2 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  7. ^ Cite error: The named reference times was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  8. ^ Walker, Noah (27 January 2022). "The World's Hardest Boulder Problems". Gripped.com. Retrieved 29 January 2022.
  9. ^ Pardy, Aaron (7 April 2023). "Burden of Dreams V17 May Get Its Second Ascent Soon". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 5 August 2023.
  10. ^ Potter, Stephen (24 April 2023). "Will Bosi Sends 'Burden of Dreams' (V17)". Climbing. Retrieved 28 June 2023.
  11. ^ Cite error: The named reference CBC was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  12. ^ Cite error: The named reference Independent was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  13. ^ Cite error: The named reference PM1 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  14. ^ Potter, Stephen (12 October 2023). "Now You Too Can Set the World's Hardest Replica". Climbing. Retrieved 7 November 2023.