Casaquin

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A casaquin is a short-length closely fitted coat[1] worn by middle- and upper-class women during the 18th century.[2] The garment was popular in both France and Italy.[1][3][4][2] A casaquin was made from linen which was then covered by embroidery, silk and lace to decorate.[2][1] The design was influenced by religious beliefs or events as well as reflecting on stylistic features of the time or of individual designers.[2][5] Casaquins were worn by a range of females—from working-class women (for practical purposes) to upper-class ladies (for social or ceremonious occasions).[6][7][1] The casaquin even influenced women from the Netherlands during the 18th century to introduce their own version of a casaquin called a "Kassekijntje".[8]

This casaquin (1725–1740, Italian) jacket from the MET Museum features woollen embroidery of birds, pagodas, and exotic flowers. The flowers reflect on the chinoiseries style commonly used by designers throughout the 18th century.[5] The figures stitched which appear as Jesters can be described as Grotesque.[9] This is another style—also used commonly throughout the 18th century—in which figures were represented through distorted shapes creating a mysterious or even unpleasant image. This design represents the influence of the 17th-century designer Jean Berain.[5] The postures of the figures depicted are also identified as a symbol commonly used throughout the 18th century to represent the four continents.[10]
This casaquin (1700s, French) from the RISD Museum highlights an alternative use of casaquins. Its small size indicates it was not worn by a woman but rather used to decorate a religious sculpture.[11] The material consists of silk woven with metallic thread and a floral pattern. The closure and bottom of the garment are accessorised with metallic bobbin lace.[11]
  1. ^ a b c d "Casaquin". Palais Galliera | Musée de la mode de la Ville de Paris. Retrieved 2019-05-06.
  2. ^ a b c d Parmal, Pamela A. (January 1997). "Fashion and the Growing Importance of the Marchande des Modes in Mid-Eighteenth-Century France". Costume. 31 (1): 68–77. doi:10.1179/cos.1997.31.1.68. ISSN 0590-8876.
  3. ^ Cite error: The named reference :2 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  4. ^ "Caraco". www.metmuseum.org. Retrieved 2019-05-06.
  5. ^ a b c "Dress". www.metmuseum.org. Retrieved 2019-05-07.
  6. ^ Cite error: The named reference :8 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  7. ^ Cite error: The named reference :4 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  8. ^ Cite error: The named reference :7 was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  9. ^ Peck, Amelia (2013-09-24). Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500?1800. Yale University Press. ISBN 9780300196986.
  10. ^ Peck, Amelia (2013-09-24). Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500?1800. Yale University Press. ISBN 9780300196986.
  11. ^ a b "Casaquin | RISD Museum". risdmuseum.org. Retrieved 2019-05-12.