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The exact origins deriving the mechanics of rogue waves has been a matter of active research and ongoing scientific debate.[1] Amongst scientific consensus, the development of rogue waves is likely influenced by several collective environmental factors, including wind, wave oscillations, currents, and possibly gale forces.[a] The universal cause explaining the origins of rogue waves exists in numerous hypotheses, the most prominent explanations include Diffractive focusing, nonlinear effects (modulational instability), and wind wave interactions. In human knowledge, rogue waves originated in myth, existing through anecdotal evidence given by early eyewitness accounts.[2][b] The irregular damage inflicted upon ships later suggested that large surface anomalies have long occurred; the application of modern technology and oceanographic studies confirmed the existence of unpredictable freak waves in later decades, and generated extensive research amongst the scientific community into several possible causes. The ambiguity surrounding rogue waves is deeply rooted in the unpredictability of wave propagation and the chaotic dynamics of wind waves attributing to their apparent randomness within evolving sea states.[3][4]
Rogue waves do not appear to have a single distinct cause.[5][c] The nature of a "freak" rogue wave are generally agreed to occur variably and without warning, yet can be observed to have highest predictability where a strong ocean current runs counter to the prevailing direction of the traveling waves. [removed content for cv]
Scientific studies of rogue waves can be traced to the recording of an abnormally large wave off of the Gorm Field in the central North Sea. The measurement of the Draupner wave off the Draupner platform was the first rogue wave to be detected by a measuring instrument. Early scientific research of unusual waves began in the 19th century with the discovery of wave of translation by John Scott Russell in 1834, in which the modern study of solitons was formed. The use of statistical models beginning in the 19th century helped to predict wave height while the general knowledge was that wave heights were grouped around a central value equal to the average of the largest third. Scientific works on "Freak Waves" began with Professor Laurence Draper in 20th century where he documented the efforts of the National Institute of Oceanography in the early 1960s to record wave height. The first scientific study to comprehensively prove that freak waves exist was published in 1997 and began an overall censuses amongst scientific authors that rogue waves exist with the caveat that wave models could not replicate rogue waves.[6] The 21st century saw the extensive discovery of rogue wave mechanics, with the successful replication of a wave with similar characteristics to the Draupner wave in 2019.[7][8]
- ^ Onorato, M.; Residori, S.; Bortolozzo, U.; Montina, A.; Arecchi, F. T. (2013-07-10). "Rogue waves and their generating mechanisms in different physical contexts". Physics Reports. 528 (2): 47–89. Bibcode:2013PhR...528...47O. doi:10.1016/j.physrep.2013.03.001. ISSN 0370-1573.
- ^ a b c d US Department of Commerce, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. "What is a rogue wave?". oceanservice.noaa.gov. Retrieved 2024-09-19.
- ^ "Wave Dynamics | Fluid Mechanis Lab". fluids.umn.edu. Retrieved 2024-09-19.
- ^ "Behaviour of waves". Science Learning Hub. Retrieved 2024-09-19.
- ^ NOAA 2024, p. 23.
- ^ J. Skourup, Hansen, Andreasen, J. , N.-E. O., K. K. (August 1, 1997). "Non-Gaussian Extreme Waves in the Central North Sea". asmedigitalcollection.asme.org. Retrieved 2024-09-19.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - ^ "Famous freak wave recreated in lab mirrors Hokusai's 'Great Wave' | University of Oxford". www.ox.ac.uk. 2019-01-23. Retrieved 2024-10-09.
- ^ McAllister, M. L.; Draycott, S.; Adcock, T. a. A.; Taylor, P. H.; Bremer, T. S. van den (February 2019). "Laboratory recreation of the Draupner wave and the role of breaking in crossing seas". Journal of Fluid Mechanics. 860: 767–786. Bibcode:2019JFM...860..767M. doi:10.1017/jfm.2018.886. ISSN 0022-1120.
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