Juanito Oiarzabal

In this Basque name, the first surname is Oiarzabal and the second is Urteaga.
Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal
Juanito Oiarzabal in 2007
Born (1956-03-30) March 30, 1956 (age 68)[1]
Vitoria-Gasteiz, Basque Country, Spain
NationalitySpain Spanish
OccupationMountaineer
Websitehttp://www.juanitooiarzabal.com/

Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga (born 30 March 1956), commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal, is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer. He has written four books on the subject. He was the 6th man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits,[2] and the third to do so without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb the top three summits twice (Everest + K2 + Kangchenjunga) and the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53, until Carlos Fontan did so in 2014, at 75 years old.[3] In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting K2.[4]

In 2009, he announced wanting to become the first person in history to reach a "double 14", summiting each 8000er twice.[2] In April 2010 he reached 24 eight-thousanders, after climbing Annapurna, a world record.[5] In 2011 he climbed Lhotse for a second time, which was his 25th eight-thousander.[6] He is second all-time for 8000er ascents behind Nepali climber Phurba Tashi Sherpa, who has 30.[6]

  1. ^ Oiarzabal, Juanito. Ingles.sge.org, Explorations and Expeditions, THE "FOURTEEN SUMMITS" WITHOUT OXYGEN, archived from the original on 2009-01-06, retrieved 2008-11-30{{citation}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  2. ^ a b explorersweb.com, StatCrunch: 8000er mountaineers with 6 summits or more, updated
  3. ^ explorersweb.com, 3 – FIVE TREASURES ON THE EASTERN BORDER, retrieved 2010-05-17
  4. ^ ExWeb interview: Juan Oiarzabal, "They are not climbers"
  5. ^ Table with list of climbers who have reached 10 or more "eight-thousanders", including repetitions, by Eberhard Jurgalski (PDF download)
  6. ^ a b 8000ers.com, Lhotse Summits!