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|
 Berbeka (left) on Mera Peak in 2009 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 17 October 1954 Zakopane, Poland |
| Died | 6 March 2013 (aged 58) Broad Peak, Pakistan |
Maciej Berbeka (17 October 1954 – 6 March 2013) was a Polish mountaineer and mountain guide.[1]
Berbeka made the first-ever winter ascent of three eight-thousanders: Manaslu, on 12 January 1984 with Ryszard Gajewski, and Cho Oyu, on 12 February 1985 with Maciej Pawlikowski (the only winter ascent on an eight-thousander made along a new route), and Broad Peak on 5 March 2013 with Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek, and Tomasz Kowalski.[2] Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski went missing on 6 March 2013 as they were descending from Broad Peak. They were declared dead two days later.[3]
Berbeka had also summited Annapurna, Mount Everest and Lhotse. He was also the first person in history to have reached over 8000 m during the winter in Karakoram – Rocky Summit (8028 m), on 6 March 1988.
His life is the subject of a 2022 Polish Netflix film, Broad Peak.[4]
- ^ Hawley, E. (1994). "Everest Ascent and Tragedy" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. 36 (68): 274–275. ISSN 0065-6925.
- ^ Griffin, Lindsay (2013). "Broad Peak (8,047m), first winter ascent and tragedy". American Alpine Journal. #55 (87): 297–299. ISBN 978-1933056791. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 25 May 2024.
- ^ "Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski". Planetmountain. 8 March 2013. Retrieved 9 March 2013.
- ^ "Broad Peak". Netflix.