Songket

Songket
A typical Minangkabau songket, the pattern in the lower third representing bamboo sprouts
TypeArt fabric
MaterialSilk, cotton, gold, silver
Place of originPalembang, Sumatra (present-day Indonesia, mainly and originally),[1][2] spread throughout Maritime Southeast Asia[3]
Songket
CountryMalaysia
DomainsTraditional craftsmanship
Reference01505
RegionAsia and the Pacific
Inscription history
Inscription2021 (16th session)
ListRepresentative List

Songket or sungkit is a tenun fabric that belongs to the brocade family of textiles of Brunei, Indonesia, and Malaysia. It is hand-woven in silk or cotton, and intricately patterned with gold or silver threads.[4] The metallic threads stand out against the background cloth to create a shimmering effect. In the weaving process the metallic threads are inserted in between the silk or cotton weft (latitudinal) threads in a technique called supplementary weft weaving technique.[5]

Songket is often associated with the Srivijaya Empire as the origin of the songket tradition, several types of popular Songket can not be separated from locations that were once under Srivijaya rule, one of the dominant locations which is also believed to be the capital of the Srivijaya Empire in the past, namely Palembang, which located in South Sumatra, Indonesia. Besides Palembang, several areas in Sumatra are also the best-in-class Songket producing locations, which include areas in Minangkabau or West Sumatra such as Pandai Sikek, Silungkang, Koto Gadang, and Padang. Outside of Sumatra, songket is also produced by regions such as Bali, Lombok, Sambas, Sumba, Makassar, Sulawesi, and other areas in Indonesia.

Due to the historical factors of the Srivijaya Empire, trade, and mixed marriages, Songket has also become popular in the Maritime Southeast Asia region, especially in countries around Indonesia such as Brunei, Malaysia, and Singapore.

Based on the analysis conducted on the statues at the Bumiayu temple, South Sumatra, it can be seen that songket has been worn by the people of South Sumatra since the 8th century CE, when Srivijaya was based in Palembang. This statue was found at the Bumiayu Temple Archaeological Site which is located on the downstream bank of Lematang River which empties into Musi River, precisely in Tanah Abang District, Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir Regency approximately 120 km to the west of Palembang City.

In Indonesia, five songket traditions are recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Indonesian Ministry of Education and Culture.[6] They are songket traditions of Palembang[7] and Sambas,[8] both appointed in 2013; Pandai Sikek songket of West Sumatra,[9] appointed in 2014; songket tradition of Beratan, Bali appointed in 2018;[10] and Silungkang songket tradition of West Sumatra, appointed in 2019.[11] In 2021, UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) officially recognized Songket as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.[12]

  1. ^ Cite error: The named reference Rodgers and Summerfield was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  2. ^ Cite error: The named reference Retno Purwanti, Sondang Martini Siregar was invoked but never defined (see the help page).
  3. ^ Kheng, June Ngo Siok (2011). "Revitalising the Craft of Songket Weaving through Innovation in Malaysia". In: Seminar a Celebration of South East Asia Textiles, in Conjunction with the Celebration of Textile Carnival and Exhibition at Department of Museums Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur 2011.
  4. ^ Dina Indrasafitri (May 19, 2010). "Glimmering 'songket' aims at spotlight". The Jakarta Post. Jakarta. Archived from the original on December 17, 2013. Retrieved December 17, 2013.
  5. ^ Niken Prathivi (2 August 2015). "New book looks into 'songket' & weaving traditions". The Jakarta Post. Jakarta. Retrieved 26 October 2015.
  6. ^ "Warisan Budaya Takbenda, Penetapan". Cultural Heritage, Ministry of Education and Culture of Indonesia. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  7. ^ "Songket Palembang". Cultural Heritage, Ministry of Education and Culture of Indonesia. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  8. ^ "Songket Sambas". Cultural Heritage, Ministry of Education and Culture of Indonesia. Retrieved 2020-12-14.
  9. ^ "Songket Pandai Sikek". Cultural Heritage, Ministry of Education and Culture of Indonesia. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  10. ^ "Songket Beratan". Cultural Heritage, Ministry of Education and Culture of Indonesia. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  11. ^ "Songket Silungkang". Cultural Heritage, Ministry of Education and Culture of Indonesia. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  12. ^ "UNESCO adds songket to 'Intangible Cultural Heritage List'". New Straits Times. 2021-12-16. Retrieved 2021-12-17.