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| Zaju chuishao fu | |||||||||||
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 Female figures dressed in the Zaju chuishao fu along with cross hairstyle and golden headpiece, early Northern Wei period: guichang (left) and guipao (middle and right) | |||||||||||
| Traditional Chinese | 雜裾垂髾服 | ||||||||||
| Simplified Chinese | 杂裾垂髾服 | ||||||||||
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| Guiyi | |||||||||||
| Chinese | 袿衣 | ||||||||||
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Zaju chuishao fu (traditional Chinese: 雜裾垂髾服; simplified Chinese: 杂裾垂髾服; pinyin: zájū chuíshāo fú), also called Guiyi (Chinese: 袿衣),[1] and sometimes referred as "Swallow-tailed Hems and Flying Ribbons clothing" or "swallow tail" clothing for short in English,[2]: 62–64 [3] is a form of set of attire in hanfu which was worn by Chinese women. The zaju chuishao fu can be traced back to the pre-Han period and appears to have originated the sandi (Chinese: 三翟) of the Zhou dynasty;[4] it then became popular during the Han,[4] Cao Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties.[5] It was a common form of aristocratic costumes in the Han and Wei dynasties[4] and was also a style of formal attire for elite women.[3] The zaju chuishao fu can be further divided into two categories of clothing style based on its cut and construction: the guipao, and the guichang (or guishu).[1][4]
The guipao falls in the category of paofu (long robe);[1][4] however, some Chinese scholars also classify it as being a type of shenyi.[6]: 62 On the other hand, the guichang follows yichang (or ruqun) system consisting of a ru, an upper garment, and a qun, a long skirt.[1][4]
The zaju chuishao fu was multi-layered and was decorated with an apron-like decorative cloth at the waist with triangular-strips at the bottom and with pieces of ribbons worn underneath the apron which would hung down from the waist.[3] The popularity of ribbons later fell and the decorative hems were eventually enlarged.[3]
This form of attire also spread to Goguryeo, where it is depicted in the tomb murals found in the Anak Tomb No.3.
- ^ a b c d 周方; 卞向阳 (June 2018). "罗袿徐转红袖扬 ——关于古代袿衣的几个问题 [Abstract]". 丝绸. ISSN 1001-7003.
- ^ Xun Zhou; Chunming Gao (1987). 5000 years of Chinese costumes. San Francisco, CA: China Books & Periodicals. ISBN 0-8351-1822-3. OCLC 19814728.
- ^ a b c d Howard, Michael C. (2016). Textiles and clothing of Viet Nam : a history. Jefferson, North Carolina: McFarland & Company. p. 52. ISBN 978-1-4766-6332-6. OCLC 933520702.
- ^ a b c d e f Bian, Xiang Yang; Zhou, Fang (2018). "A Study on the Origin and Evolution of Shape and Structure of 'Gui-Yi' in Ancient China". Researchgate.
- ^ Cite error: The named reference
:1was invoked but never defined (see the help page). - ^ Zhou, Xun; Gao, Chunming; Zhou. Zhongguo fu shi wu qian nian 中國服飾五千年 [5000 years of Chinese costumes] (in Chinese). Hongkong: 商務印書館香港分館 學林出版社. OCLC 973669827.